Cheese gougères

Instructions

1. Step 1

   Preheat the oven to 200°C and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. High initial heat makes the steam in the dough burst out forcefully so the puffs rise up round. The oven is ready when the heating light first switches off.

   Mark step 1 as done

2. Step 2

   Put 125 g water, 125 g whole milk, 100 g unsalted butter and 3 g salt in a saucepan and heat over medium until the butter has melted and the mixture comes to a rolling boil. The butter must melt completely before the liquid boils so too much water doesn't evaporate. It is ready when the whole surface is boiling vigorously.

   Medium heat.

   Mark step 2 as done

3. Step 3

   Add all of the 150 g all-purpose flour at once, stir hard with a wooden spoon, then keep stirring on the heat for about two more minutes. Cooking the flour gelatinizes the starch and builds the framework that lets the puffs rise hollow. The dough is ready when it forms a smooth ball that doesn't stick to the pan and a thin film coats the bottom.

   Medium heat.

   Mark step 3 as done

4. Step 4

   Transfer the dough to a bowl and beat it with a mixer on low speed for about a minute to let some of the heat escape. Dough that is too hot will cook the eggs as you add them. It is ready when it feels warm but not scalding to the touch.

   Mark step 4 as done

5. Step 5

   Add 220 g beaten eggs in four or five additions, beating well after each one until fully incorporated. The amount of egg determines the consistency, so you may hold some back if the dough is already soft enough. The dough is ready when it is glossy and smooth and a line drawn with your finger closes up slowly.

   Mark step 5 as done

6. Step 6

   Use a spatula to fold 100 g grated Gruyère, a pinch ground nutmeg and a pinch ground black pepper into the dough. The cheese goes in last so it keeps its texture and doesn't make the dough too stiff. The dough is ready when the cheese is evenly distributed and the dough is still glossy.

   Mark step 6 as done

7. Step 7

   Spoon the dough into a piping bag with a round tip, pipe walnut-size mounds about three centimeters apart and sprinkle 30 g grated Gruyère over the tops. Wide spacing lets hot air circulate so the puffs rise evenly on all sides. They are ready when the mounds are evenly round and any pointed tips have been smoothed down with a wet finger.

   Mark step 7 as done

8. Step 8

   Bake at 200°C for the first 10 to 12 minutes, and don't open the oven door under any circumstances. During this stage, steam pushes the puffs up quickly. They are ready when they have doubled in size and are starting to turn golden.

   Bake at 200°C for about 10 to 12 minutes.

   Mark step 8 as done

9. Step 9

   Lower the oven to 180°C and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes so the shells dry out and firm up. If you take them out too early, they will collapse when they hit the cooler air. They are done when they are evenly golden brown, feel light when lifted and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.

   Bake at 180°C for about 10 to 15 minutes.

   Mark step 9 as done

10. Step 10

    Take the puffs out, poke a small hole in the side of each one with a skewer to let the steam escape, and serve right away while warm. Releasing the steam keeps the shells crisp for longer. They are finished when the shells are crunchy and, when broken open, the insides are hollow and soft with cheese.

    Mark step 10 as done