Taiwanese pineapple cakes

Instructions

1. Step 1

   Peel 420 g fresh pineapple, cutting out all the eyes and the hard core, then chop it finely or pulse it briefly in a food processor with 150 g candied winter melon, and press it in a sieve to squeeze out some of the juice. Pressing out the juice shortens the cooking time and keeps the filling from turning mushy. The fruit is ready when it's in loose, fine shreds, moist but no longer dripping.

   Mark step 1 as done

2. Step 2

   Put the pineapple mixture in a deep skillet with 60 g granulated sugar and cook it over medium heat, stirring steadily; when the filling starts to dry out, add 40 g maltose, lower the heat and keep cooking for about forty-five minutes in total. Adding the maltose later makes the filling chewy and glossy and keeps the sugar from crystallizing. The filling is ready when it turns amber, gathers into a mass that doesn't stick to the pan and can be shaped into balls once cool.

   Suggested time: about 45 minutes. Medium heat.

   Mark step 2 as done

3. Step 3

   Beat 130 g softened unsalted butter with 35 g powdered sugar and a pinch salt on medium speed until lightly fluffy, then gradually add 50 g beaten eggs and keep beating until combined. Moderately fluffy butter makes a crust that's tender and melts in your mouth. The mixture is ready when it's as smooth as cream, ivory in color and not curdled.

   Mark step 3 as done

4. Step 4

   Sift 200 g cake flour with 30 g milk powder into the butter, then use a flat spatula to smear and mix gently until it forms a soft dough. Mixing as little as possible keeps the crust from turning tough and hard after baking. The dough is ready when it's smooth, as soft as clay and has no streaks of white flour.

   Mark step 4 as done

5. Step 5

   Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for about thirty minutes so the butter firms up, and meanwhile divide the cooled filling into sixteen equal balls. Then weigh and divide the crust dough into sixteen portions. Moderately chilled dough won't stick to your hands as you wrap. This step is done when each portion of crust weighs slightly more than each ball of filling and both are evenly round.

   Suggested time: about 30 minutes.

   Mark step 5 as done

6. Step 6

   Flatten a portion of crust dough in your palm, set a ball of filling in the center, then use the space between your thumb and forefinger to gradually push the dough up around the filling and pinch it closed. Working slowly keeps the crust evenly thick with no thin spots that could crack. The ball is ready when it's smooth and round with no filling showing anywhere.

   Mark step 6 as done

7. Step 7

   Set rectangular molds on a parchment-lined baking sheet, drop a ball into each and use a press to gently push down on both sides so the dough fills the corners of the mold, leaving the molds on for baking. The molds give the cakes their signature square edges. The cakes are ready when the tops are flat, the corners are full and the dough is level with the top of the mold.

   Mark step 7 as done

8. Step 8

   Bake at 170°C for about twelve minutes, take them out and flip each cake over, still in its mold, then bake for about eight to twelve minutes more. Flipping helps both sides turn evenly golden and stay neatly flat. They're done when both sides are a shiny gold, the edges are lightly browned and the cakes come away from the molds on their own as they cool a little.

   Bake at 170°C for about 20 to 25 minutes.

   Mark step 8 as done

9. Step 9

   Let the cakes cool completely on a rack before unmolding them, then store them in an airtight container overnight before enjoying them. During this rest, moisture from the filling spreads into the crust, making the cakes softer and more flavorful. They're ready when the crust is soft and fine, crumbles tenderly when you bite into it and the filling is thick and chewy.

   Mark step 9 as done